I’ve found myself in a rut this year somehow eating only simple chocolates including some quasi-mass-market brands. It’s what’s been lying around the kitchen and it has done a fine job at satisfying my impulse cravings, but has not been all that interesting. That all changed when I found myself in Harvard Square this weekend where I stepped into the landmark gourmet shop – Cardullo’s. Like other shops around the country, I’ve seen their selection of artisan chocolates slowly dwindle in recent years, but I knew I could rely upon them to have something beyond the average confection.
There I found Bonnat – too delicate, Dolfin – over refined, Antidote – fun, but I was not in the mood, and then Dick Taylor – perfect, reliably excellent. And to be sure I had a good experience, I choose the Madagascar bar. I’ve never met a Madagascan chocolate I didn’t like with typically a decent balance of fruit and roast. What was more intriguing was that the cacao from this dark chocolate comes from the single estate, Akesson Plantation in the Sambirano Valley. How would that affect the flavor profile?
Dick Taylor Madagascar Sambirano Dark Chocolate Review
WHAT: Dick Taylor Madagascar Sambirano 72% dark chocolate. 57 g. Ingredients: Cacao, cane sugar. Both are organic. I paid $11 in a specialty shop. You might pay more or less.
WHEN: April 20, 2019 OVERALL RATING: 92.
AROMA: Molasses, yogurt, caramel, cherry.
INITIAL IMPRESSIONS: Apple, grape
MIDDLE TASTE: Apple, then caramel and molasses again.
FINISH: Apple and citrus moving to caramel and dairy then back to apple / citrus repeatedly and finally resting on grape must. A long and pleasant finish
TEXTURE: I love it when you press a bit of chocolate with your tongue and it flattens into a soft solid and then liquid. No grains at all – perfectly refined without loosing flavor from being overworked. Well done.
I can safely declare that I’m out of my chocolate rut for now. This was an excellent experience and uncommon to have such complexity in any chocolate. What’s more, with the incredibly intricate molding this is also an beautiful bar for gifting.