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Book Review: Eat What You Love, Love What You Eat

November 7, 2009 · Leave a Comment

Soon after writing one of my more popular posts, A Mind Full of Chocolate, which introduces the concept of mindful eating, I came across a new and very important book that applies mindfulness and other progressive methods to the issue of weight management.   Eat What You Love, Love What You Eat: How to Break Your Eat-Repent- Repeat Cycle by Michelle May, M.D. is a fresh look at an old problem.

Eat What You Love, Love What You Eat

Best Health Book of the year by National Book Awards

As an evangelist for fine chocolate and a Certified Fitness Nutritionist, I have a sort-of moral obligation to provide people some tools to eat reasonably, right? The way I look at it, maintaining a healthy relationship with food, including chocolate, is what enables you to enjoy good food for the rest of your life without worry. There’s no need to pretend you don’t love food or to distance yourself from food – that would be unnatural.   Maintaining a healthy balance is what’s important and that’s why it’s so refreshing to find a book that helps people achieve that balance in a natural, but not necessarily effortless way.

It would be unfair to call this a diet book since it really does usher in a new way of thinking about eating – a more holistic approach.  But let’s recall the diet books of the past.  There was the obvious low-carb craze in which, if I could exaggerate a bit, you starve yourself almost completely of carbs in the first phase until your body switches into a new biochemical state so that you start to smell and feel strange and then you add a few carbs back in the second phase until you feel somewhat normal again.  You get to eat loads of meat and fat.  Don’t worry, it’s complicated and unintuitive, but it works.  Right.  Or how about, let’s eat grape fruit for 2 weeks or…peaches, or whatever until you are entirely fed up with that food and don’t feel like eating much.  All such approaches are a form of calorie restriction – creating a rigid set of rules around what you can and can’t eat so in the end, you simply eat less.  Less, that is, until you can’t take it anymore and go back to whatever you were doing before you started the diet.  And that was working, right?

Contrast that to Dr. May’s approach:  you learn to become more aware of your body and your emotions – gaining insight to why you eat and how you feel during each part of the eating cycle.  You ask yourself the simple question: “am I hungry” and based upon this, make conscious decisions about what to do next while fully awake.  By awake, I mean mindful of your feelings and the physical state of your body (physical feelings of hunger or fatigue, for instance).  She also explains how to put mindful eating to work so you enjoy food more and feel more satisfied with each meal.  This all might sound a little touch-feely, but Dr. May brings it all down to earth with practical, tangible methods.  She outlines many common scenarios and offers strategies for dealing with each one. For instance, how do you deal with the sugar craving that might come with the afternoon slump or how do you recognize and respond to certain emotional triggers.

There’s also a rating scale to help you conceptualize the stages of hunger from 1 to 10.  It seems to me that this and other skills outlined in the book are easy enough to learn and apply so they can become habit and a seamless part of one’s life.  No complex rules, just concepts and skills that allow you to be in charge of your eating.  However, there is plenty of factual nutritional information including guidance on balancing certain types of nutrients, but it’s all kept pretty light rather than textbook-like.  I think if you are going to eat mindfully and intelligently, you need a basic dose of nutritional knowledge to back you up.  The book equips you with what you need to know so you maintain a healthy balance.

But lack of rules doesn’t mean lack of guidance.  There are plenty of specifics in this book, it’s just up to you to decide what applies to you and what to use in each situation.  Eat What You Love, Love What You Eat helps you through many common scenarios such as how to resolve emotional eating, how to stop using exercise as a punishment (“if I eat this, I will need to do an extra 20 minutes on the treadmill”) and, of course, how to make nutritionally sound choices.

I sometimes wonder if some people are afraid they might finally find the solution that actually works.  What if you ask the question “am I hungry” and don’t like the answer?  In an unexpected twist,  Dr. May says it’s still all up to you what you do.  Even if you are not truly hungry, you might still decide to eat.  As long as you are aware of what you are doing an why, it’s OK.  It’s better than mindless, impulsive eating.  It’s just part of the path of being more aware of the reasons for eating and what it’s doing for you. The assumption is that eventually you will make healthier choices more often because you are more aware of what you are eating and why.  Even better, you can still have an affectionate, but healthy relationship with food.

Trying hard find something wrong with this book, I dove deep into the later chapters where there are series of recipes, expecting to find bland or dumbed-down concoctions.   What I found instead was that the recipes were created with the help Dr. May’s husband, a professional spa chef.  After I got beyond the chocolate chip cloud cookies and bittersweet chocolate souffles, I found some tasty, but straightforward recipes:  roasted roots, southwestern stew and olive tapende.  The recipes strike a good balance between easy preparation and excitement.

In short, it’s all about you – not about some one-size fits all set of rules – it’s about how you fee, l your reasons for eating, your situation, your relationship with food.  In the end, I think this is the start of a paradigm shift where we will see more approaches like this that integrate a holistic and flexible approach including mindfulness.  Readers would be well served to read this book and ride the front of that wave.

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Grenada Chocolate Company Organic Dark Chocolate 71% Cacao

October 18, 2009 · 1 Comment

The Grenada Chocolate Company’s solar–powered factory sits in the Caribbean rainforest among lush cocoa groves. It’s here that the organically farmed cacao is transformed into gloriously complex chocolate. Grenada is able to achieve award–winning results through control and involvement in all steps of the process: from the farms in the cocoa growing cooperative to the bean fermentation process. The results are obvious in the deep complex flavors developed in the bars. The deep espresso, cream and vanilla flavors and aromas are dazzling.

Grenada Chocolate Company's Organic Dark Chocolate 71% Cocoa

Grenada Chocolate Company's Organic Dark Chocolate 71% Cocoa

The chocolate is certified organic with every ingredient being organic starting with, of course, the cacao, sugar, biodynamically grown vanilla from Costa Rica, and organic soy lecithin in very small amounts as an emulsifier (see Last Bite below for more on soy lecithin).  Grenada advertises: “all of our products are nut free – not a trace.”

Local involvement in this enterprise doesn’t stop with the cocoa farmers. Rather, the factory itself is run and owned by Grenadians. This takes the fair trade model even further and shares more of the benefits with the local population.

The only thing not to like about The Grenada Chocolate Company is they only make two bars:  a 71% and a 60% cacao.  At the same time, I have to admire focus.  The 71% bar won the silver medal at the 2008 Academy of Chocolate Awards for Best Dark Organic Bar.  I decided to see what this was all about by tasting a bar… or two.

WHAT:  Grenada Chocolate Company 71%. USDA Organic. 85g bar. Ingredients: Organic cocoa beans, organic cane sugar, fresh organic cocoa butter, organic vanilla beans, organic soy lecithin (in very small amounts).  Price range: $$  Where to buy.

WHEN: I tasted a number of bars during September and October 2009

OVERALL RATING: 87

AROMA: Coconut, coffee, green beans.

INITIAL IMPRESSIONS: Espresso and espresso and espresso- a real dark, rich, intense bar.

MIDDLE TASTE: Angle food cake, honey-ham, cinnamon, cloves, strawberries.

FINISH:  Toasted marshmallows, fresh light coffee, vanilla, whipped creme.  No astringency;  just a smooth ending.

TEXTURE:  Smooth and creamy.

LAST BITE -  The dominant themes were 1) COFFEE:  first espresso moving into cappuccino moving into light coffee at the end and 2) ANGLE CAKE – starting with a light toast plus berries, then the angle cake, then marshmallows.  This is my kind of chocolate – I like my coffee super-dark and without sugar.  This had the most potent coffee aromas I have come across in while, but still had the coveted fruitiness that I suppose helped win the silver medal.

Sometimes you’ll find smoky coffee notes in a chocolate that’s made from over-roasted beans.  In fact there are two ways to cover up the flavor of an inferior bean – over-roasting and adding extra vanilla.  There is no evidence of either evil digression in this chocolate.  Instead, the fruit notes of the bean shine through well and the vanilla blends in a complementary way – I didn’t even pick it up as one of the dominant flavors (although it’s probably part of what I sensed as “marshmallow”).  Again, judicious use of vanilla can enhance flavor and over-use is abuse.

Now I need to comment on the ingredients a bit.  Some people object to having any soy lecithin in their chocolate.  It’s there for a reason – to help fill the molds and stabilize the suspension of cocoa particles.  I can only speculate that because Grenada Chocolate has some elaborate artwork in the molds, that they are more difficult to fill.  I don’t personally object to soy lecithin as long as the amount is small and I can’t taste it.  It is a food (vegetable) based material after all.  As far as I can tell, the objections to soy lecithin come from a three  camps.  First, some people have concerns about soy in general because it contains natural phytoestrogens that mimic estrogen in our bodies and may cause hormonal imbalances.  But this not soy; it’s lecithin and it’s not like eating a block of tofu.  To lump a tiny amount  of soy lecithin in with a general fear of soy seems misplaced.  I can’t see any reason for concern here.

Then there is the small percentage of the popluation that is  alergic to soy.   They have a legitimate conern, but fortunately most of these people  are  not allergic to soy lecithin since it is a by-product of making the oil.  The other concern might be that lecithin is often extracted from soy using solvents and these might also pull out and concentrate any pesticides in the soy.  Again, no worries, since we are dealing with organic soy lecithin in the Grenada bar.   Organic soy by definition doesn’t see any chemical pesticides!  On the other hand, the purist in me would prefer that they not use it – not because I have any health concerns at all, but because chocolate making is about chocolate and we know that other producers have done it without lecithin.  Although, others may have simpler patterns  in their molds, so let’s cut some slack here.

In the end, the taste trumps (almost) all else and this one is a winner.  They have the medal to prove it.

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Event Alert: Chocolate Show New York Oct 30 – Nov 1, 2009

October 13, 2009 · Leave a Comment

The  12th Annual Chocolate Show will hit New York city on October 30th and run through November 1st.   The show is geared for both industry professionals as well as the general public.    There will be exhibits from world-class chocolate makers including some of our favorites, culinary demonstrations, and even a kids zone.  The Kids Zone will be a place for kids with their parents to learn about how chocolate is made and to make a Halloween-themed or chocolate-themed craft.

Tickets are $28 in advance for adults and free for kids (2 child per adult limit).  The price for any additional child 5-12 is $8.

Hours:

Friday, October 30:  Noon to  8pm

Saturday, October 31:  10am to 8pm

Sunday, November 1: 10am to 5pm

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Taza Stone Ground, Chocolate Mexicano – Yerba Mate

October 8, 2009 · 3 Comments

 

Taza Yerba Mate redbg JPEG_LRGI’ve become a big fan of Taza Chocolate.  It’s part loyalty to the only bean-to-bar producer here in Boston, if not the east coast, and part admiration for the innovation they’ve introduced to the world of premium chocolate.  These guys innovated not by adding some new complex process to chocolate making, but by simplifying the usual “modern” process.  Specifically, they do no conching and less refining than most producers so that the courser stone-ground texture comes through in the final product.  But it’s not all about the texture. Rather, the goal is to preserve the natural fruity character of the original bean through minimal processing.  By starting with high quality beans and employing a light roast, they achieve thier goal with beautiful simplicity.

To be clear, this is a traditional process, not a new invention in that sense.  What is new is the unexpected addition of the yerba mate flavor to the Taza line.  They give no particular explanation for why yerba mate, but it seems pretty consistent with their Latin American theme.

Yerba mate is a tropical herb and the tea made from it is considered to be the national drink in many South American countries. It contains both theobromine (the same mild stimulant found in chocolate) and caffeine in levels about half of that of coffee (that is, for the same volume of tea). So, you can expect some caffeine in this chocolate. Some of the compounds in Yerba mate are thought to have beneficial health effects. For instance, recent research shows that saponins have a stimulating effect on the immune system. Numerous studies have found Yerba Mate to have significant antioxidant activity and one Swiss study found that it also had potential as a weight-loss aid.**

But, I didn’t eat this stuff to get healthy, I ate it to see how it tastes, so let’s take a look…

WHAT:  Taza Stone Ground, Chocolate Mexicano – Yerba Mate. USDA Organic. 77g bar. Ingredients: organic cacao beans, organic cane sugar, organic yerba mate powder.  Price range: $$  Where to buy.

WHEN: 30 September, 2009

OVERALL RATING: 82

AROMA: Seaspray, nori, vanilla, hemlock.

INITIAL IMPRESSIONS: Pine, black tea, caramel.

MIDDLE TASTE: Raspberry, orange peel, black tea with lemon, blackberries covered with sugar.

FINISH:  Mint, sweet egg custard,  there’s strawberry shortcake flavor that lingers and fades slowly.

TEXTURE:  A rustic, coarse texture that we’ve come to expect from this stone ground process.

LAST BITE -   What I liked most was the big rise of herbals in the middle - definitely more black tea than green tea.  There’s a mix of berries, cake with herbals that somehow works.  The finish was unexpected – even though the chocolate was gone from my mouth, waves of berry and herb / mint kept coming.

(**Note: these statements have not been evaluated by the food and drug administration.  This product is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease).

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PRESS RELEASE: NewLeaf Chocolates Successfully Ships Chocolate to Texas in the Heat of Summer using its GreenPod™ Sustainable Packaging

September 29, 2009 · Leave a Comment

ARLINGTON, Mass., September 2009 – In a test of its earth-friendly GreenPodTM packaging, NewLeaf Chocolates successfully shipped premium chocolates to Florida, New Mexico and Texas despite temperatures exceeding 90 degrees.  “Chocolate enthusiasts want access to a wide selection of premium and artisan chocolates online, but many don’t like the environmental impact of conventional shipping materials” says Genevieve Oba, Co-founder.  “We refuse to ship our chocolate in polystyrene foam boxes.”

This created a problem for the company – how to prevent damage to the fine chocolate caused by heat and shock while avoiding the environmental impact of polystyrene foam insulation or plastic bags. To address these concerns, the company has developed a unique packaging solution.  The GreenPodTM sustainable packaging uses only plant-based materials that are recycled, recyclable or biodegradable.  NewLeaf Chocolates is currently shipping all its chocolate using the new package design with no additional cost to customers.

Ms. Oba continues “We are delighted at the results of the testing in July and August.  Our customers are a more sophisticated group that seeks the best chocolates, but also wants to do the right thing for the planet.”  Sherri Weeks, a chocolate enthusiast from Plano Texas reports: “… I was impressed by the way they packaged their product to ensure that the quality of the chocolate was not sacrificed during shipping… attention to details made ordering from NewLeaf Chocolates a great experience, not to mention that the chocolate tasted delightful!”

Moving into the fall season now, NewLeaf Chocolates will ship using a simpler GreenPod, but one that is still constructed entirely of sustainable plant-based materials.  The company plans to develop additional GreenPod designs to handle larger chocolate products.  These new designs will be put into action starting in the spring of 2010.  GreenPod TM is a trademark of NewLeaf Chocolates.

ABOUT NEWLEAF CHOCOLATES

LeafLogo_cleaned_crop_JPEGNewLeaf Chocolates is a unique online shop for premium and artisan chocolates.  They strive to protect the planet in everything they do and affirm this commitment in three tangible ways:   by donating a portion of all sales to environmental charities, by continuously innovating within their GreenPod sustainable packaging initiative, and by focusing their offering on the world’s best organic and fair trade chocolates.  NewLeaf Chocolates is a member of 1% for the Planet.

Contact:

Genevieve Oba

NewLeaf Chocolates

info@newleafchocolates.com

+1-781-777-1196

http://www.newleafchocolates.com

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Theo Ghana /Panama / Ecuador Blend – 75% Cacao

September 20, 2009 · Leave a Comment

Theo Ghana / Panama / Ecuador Blend - 75% Cacao

Theo Chocolate was the first to make fair-trade, organic bean-to-bar chocolate in the United States.  Still a relatively small operation out of Seattle, they continue to expand their offering of bars in three lines:  Classic, 3400 Phinney, and Origin.  The classic bars include plain and flavored bars as well as a collaboration with the  Jane Goodall Institute.  3400 Phinney is a collection of innovative flavor combinations such as Bread and Chocolate packaged in a whimsical wrapper designed by a local artist.  The Origin bars specify the origin of the cacao and attempt to capture the distinct growing environment and terroir in the flavor of the finished chocolate.  As we will see next, Origin doesn’t necessarily mean, single-origin.  The Ghana – Panama -Ecuador uses cacao from all three countries to make an intriguingly complex blend of flavors.  Did they succeed?

WHAT:  Theo Ghana / Panama / Ecuador blend – 75% Cacao.  3oz / 84g. Fair Trade certified by Transfair USA.   The Panama and Ecuador beans are organic, but the Ghana beans are not.  Price range: $$

WHEN: 16 September, 2009

OVERALL RATING: 86

AROMA: Banana, cinnamon, leather, distant bacon (like when you’re camping and someone starts cooking bacon in a distant campsite early in the morning and you start to smell to faint aroma permeating your tent), buttered toast, hay.  I haven’t come across such complex aroma profile in a while.

INITIAL IMPRESSIONS: Apple peel, unripe pear, butter, chardonnay wine.

MIDDLE TASTE: Bread, bananas, prunes, butter, cinnamon, slight clove, un-smoked ham.

FINISH: Apple peel, bread, cut hay, milk.  Flattens out smoothly to a buttered bread at the very end for a long finish.  Very pleasant ending – no astringent despite the high cacao content.  Not a remarkable  finish, but very good.

TEXTURE: Smooth, creamy.

LAST BITE -  The aroma was the best feature, I rated it a 9.5, but this is not to say the taste was less than wonderful.  It’s just that the complexity of the aroma was like nothing that I’ve tasted recently and outshined everything else.  This complexity did, indeed, carry through to the flavor.  With the jet-black color, I was afraid the beans might be a bit over-roasted.  It wasn’t.  I tasted this one twice over a week’s time and on the first tasting, it was more intense, feeling more like 85 or 90% cacao, but on the second tasting it seemed more mellow and balanced.  It “ate” more like 70%.  Great job Theo!  My only request for improvement would be to try to source organic cacao from Ghana to make the trio complete.  I know this is not simple, but it would make the bar more consistent with the rest of the Theo line and philosophy.  In the end, it’s not a major complaint since two out of three ain’t bad.

Sorry for the long delay since my last tasting.  I’ve had a cold.  To be fair to the chocolate and catch all the nuances I wanted to be fully symptom-free before tasting again.  I’m back in the game now and should have more posts to come soon.

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Event Alert: Austin Chocolate Festival

September 18, 2009 · Leave a Comment

Those of you in the Austin area might want to check out the 4th Annual Austin Texas Chocolate Festival September 18 -19, 2009.

The festival benefits Susan G. Komen for the Cure.  There will be a chocolate competition in 8 categories including best truffle. For tickets and more information see: http://austinchocolatefestival.com/index.php/Home.html

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Les Chocolates Yves Thuries: Chocolate Noir Aux Eclats de Violette

August 23, 2009 · Leave a Comment

Dark Chocolate with Crystalized Violets from Les Chocolates Yves ThuriesFor the record, my wife picked this one out during our last chocolate-buying spree at Cardullo’s, a gourmet grocer in Harvard Square, Cambridge.  It seemed a little girly for me, but how could she resist with the clever windowed packaging revealing the pretty little pieces of violet flowers inside of sugar crystals.  Why not I thought, expecting the worst.  In the end, I enjoyed it just fine.  I can’t give it a high rating since, for me, the perfume notes got in the way of the chocolate.  Flowers in chocolate are not unheard of.  Galler and others have done violets and orange blossoms.  Violets are  a very interesting  combination and beautiful to look at.  My wife thoroughly enjoyed this bar.

WHAT:  Yves Thuries, Dark Chocolate with Crystallized Violets. 80g bar. Ingredients: 70% cacao couverture chocolate (with non-GMO soy lecithin) crystallized natural violet fragments (includes sugar, saccharose and natural colors).  Price range: $$$

WHEN: 22 August, 2009

OVERALL RATING: 66. Highest marks were for aroma and texture.

AROMA: Perfumed violets and lavender, Cinnamon on toast, light coffee, mushrooms.

INITIAL IMPRESSIONS:  Jasmine and violets, toffee, lavender.

MIDDLE TASTE: Very buttery.  Morphs into a more mixed floral in the middle – violet, roses and jasmine.  Cafe au lait. Vanilla, creme.  Honey.

FINISH: Rock-candy, cashews, butter, musk.YT Dark Chocolate with Violet Crystals - Windowed Package

TEXTURE: The base chocolate is soft and smooth while the crystals add an interesting crunch.

LAST BITE -   There’s a generous amount of violet crystals here and they definitely come through (otherwise, what would be the point?).  I’m not so  hot on the long ingredients list and don’t know why saccharose is needed. To be fair most of the ingredients are natural.  Finally, don’t confuse the perfume for complexity in the chocolate – the base chocolate seems good, but not great.  I can see this  as a fun gift for someone.  It makes a good showing with the windowed packaging, it’s great to look at and tastes good.

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Chocolate 101 – What’s a Bloom?

August 15, 2009 · 1 Comment

This chocolate was intentionally abused to induce a bloom - the whitish area to the left.  On the right some condensation has not yet evaporated into a sugar bloom.

This chocolate was intentionally abused to induce a bloom - the whitish area to the left. On the right some condensation has not yet evaporated into a sugar bloom.

Chocolate 101 – What’s a Bloom?

More importantly, should you care?  The short answer is yes and no.  First, let’s take a look at one of the final steps in chocolate making and one that can give chocolatiers the most headaches: tempering.  The cocoa butter (fat) in chocolate can exist in six different crystalline states, but only one of these, the beta-form, is stable at room temperature.  Tempering is achieved by heating the chocolate above the melting point for all the crystalline forms, and then carefully cooling it in the presence of a beta seed crystal. ** check – heat, cool, heat or….? By keeping these fat molecules in a crystalline form, you can make chocolate with a beautiful sheen and a nice crisp snap.  This is especially important for chocolatiers doing enrobing or coating of filled confections so that the coating can form a nice shell that won’t break apart.
Most, but not all, chocolate makers also go to great lengths to be sure that the cocoa butter and cocoa particles are intimately mixed so that the cocoa butter surrounds the cocoa particle.  This happens during refining and conching where the sugar is also broken down to a very fine particle size (below ** microns).  All of this just so you can enjoy a smooth, sensual mouth-feel in your favorite chocolate.
Now, when a bloom occurs, some of this hard work is undone.  If chocolate gets too warm, the cocoa butter will start to separate out and you will get a whitish, grey-white or tan haze the surface.  This is a fat bloom or cocoa butter bloom.  Don’t panic! It won’t hurt you nor will it affect the taste of the chocolate.  It just doesn’t look too pretty.  If we’re talking about a chocolate bar, go ahead and eat it. OK, were not talking about leaving it in the sun for days – then it may be oxidized and for milk chocolate or filled chocolates start to go bad.  On the other hand, just getting too warm for a while or going from cold to warm too fast might produce a fat bloom that in itself is no big deal.
** can also occur due to inpromper tempering.
On the other hand, should you store your precious chocolate in a humid place or, more likely, you’ve kept it in the fridge and then move it out, unprotected to a warm, humid room.  Under these conditions, moisture will form on the surface of the chocolate and may result in a sugar bloom.   The reasons for this are simple:  sugar is very soluble in water – it likes to be in water.  So, the water “pulls” the sugar out to the surface and when it evaporates, nice little sugar crystals are left behind.  No big deal.  The bar should taste fine except the texture maybe altered since SOME of the sugar is not where is was meant to be.  Go ahead and eat it.  No worries.
In the end, bloom won’t hurt you.  Sure, it may diminish your ***experience somewhat since the texture may change to be more grainy or in the extreme, dry and chalky.  So, it’s best to handle and store your chocolate carefully to avoid bloom as much as possible.
You’re probably wondering: “how can I avoid blooming chocolate?”  Stay tuned for a post in the next week or two where you will learn the best ways to handle and store chocolate.
Photo: don’t run…it’s just a bloom!

More importantly, should you care?  The short answer is yes and no.  First, let’s take a look at one of the final steps in chocolate making and one that can give chocolatiers the most headaches:  tempering.  The cocoa butter (fat) in chocolate can exist in six different crystalline states, but only one of these, the beta-1 form, is stable at room temperature.  Tempering is achieved by heating the chocolate above the melting point for all the crystalline forms, and then carefully cooling it (this is a simplified explanation).   By keeping these fat molecules in a stable crystalline form, you can make chocolate with a beautiful sheen and a nice crisp snap.  This is especially important for chocolatiers doing enrobing or coating of filled confections so that the coating can form a nice shell that won’t break apart.

This chocolate was intentionally abused to induce a bloom - the whitish area to the left.  On the right some condensation has not yet evaporated into a sugar bloom.

This chocolate was intentionally abused to induce a bloom - the whitish area to the left. On the right some condensation has not yet evaporated into a sugar bloom.

Most, but not all, chocolate makers also go to great lengths to be sure that the cocoa butter and cocoa particles are very tiny and intimately mixed so that the cocoa butter surrounds the cocoa particle.  This happens during refining and conching where the sugar is also broken down to a very fine particle size (typically below about 50 microns).  All of this just so you can enjoy a smooth, sensual mouth-feel in your favorite chocolate.

Now, when a bloom occurs, some of this hard work is undone.  If chocolate gets too warm for too long, the cocoa butter will start to separate out and you will get a whitish, grey-white or tan haze the surface.  This is a fat bloom or cocoa butter bloom.  Don’t panic! It won’t hurt you and, in all but the most extreme cases, it won’t affect the taste of the chocolate.  It just doesn’t look too pretty.  If we’re talking about a chocolate bar, go ahead and eat it. OK, were not talking about leaving it in the sun for days – then it may be oxidized and for milk chocolate or filled chocolates start to go bad.  Just letting it sit above 75 degrees F for to long or going from cold to warm too fast might produce a minor fat bloom that, in itself, is no big deal.  Besides, properly-tempered, high quality chocolate will be more resistant to bloom.

On the other hand, should you store your precious chocolate in a humid place or, more likely, you’ve kept it in the fridge and then move it out unprotected to a warm, humid room, you could produce a sugar bloom.  Moisture forms on the cool surface of the chocolate and and “pulls” some sugar out to the surface.   The reasons for this are simple:  sugar is very soluble in water – it likes to be in water more than in the chocolate.  When the water evaporates, nice little sugar crystals are left behind.  No big deal.  The bar should taste fine except the texture maybe altered since SOME of the sugar is not where is was meant to be.  Go ahead and eat it.  No worries.

In the end, bloom won’t hurt you.  But, it may diminish your tasting experience somewhat since the texture may change to be more grainy or in the extreme, dry and chalky.  So, it’s best to handle and store your chocolate carefully to avoid bloom as much as possible.  Don’t do what I did and try to induce a bloom by repeated freezing and moving chocolate to a warm (80 degree F) room over a few days.  You’ll get the ugly mess in the photo.

Although my self-induced blooming disaster took quite a bit of effort on my part, you’re still probably wondering: “how can I avoid accidentally blooming chocolate?”  Stay tuned for a post in the next week or two where you will learn the best ways to handle and store chocolate.

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Pacari Dark Chocolate Covered Nibs

August 7, 2009 · Leave a Comment

Roasted cocoa beans (left) are cracked and winnowed to get at the nibs (center).

Roasted cocoa beans (left) are cracked and winnowed to get at the nibs (center).

Part way through the chocolate making process, after the beans are roasted, cracked and then winnowed to remove the shells,  you’ve got nibs.  Nibs are the meat of the bean and normally ground to make cocoa liqueur which continues on to become chocolate.  You could eat nibs alone at this point and enjoy a fresh, minimally-processed food that’s high in antioxidants, but they would be too bitter for most of us.  Coat them with chocolate, and voila – the best of both worlds – a fresh, raw center contrasting with a smooth, sweeter shell.

Although I’ve already reviewed some bars with nibs added, this is the first review of straight chocolate-covered nibs.  Since nibs can’t really be compared to bars, I’m not going to offer a rating, but just keep it light and offer some impressions.

WHAT:  Pacari Organic Dark Chocolate Covered Nibs.  Cocoa origin: Ecuador from Arriba National cacao.  2oz (57g) Price range: $$$

WHEN: 7 August, 2009

Pacari Organic Dark Chocolate Covered Nibs. Note the red-brown color.

Pacari Organic Dark Chocolate Covered Nibs. Note the red-brown color.

AROMA: Inviting vanilla, toast, tobacco.

INITIAL IMPRESSIONS: Apple, pear, citrus, honey.

MIDDLE TASTE: Blueberry, strawberry, fresh melon, almond, tea.

FINISH: Pistachio, cedar, burlap, tobacco.  There is a period where all the sweetness and fruit disappears and you have some astringency and bitterness, but it was surprisingly mild and not unpleasant.

TEXTURE:  Not as crunchy as you might expect. Remember cocoa beans are fermented, roasted, and ground making them softer and developing flavors along the way.  Towards the finish there is a somewhat fibrous sensation for a while, but this goes away pretty fast and the nibs completely disappear.  Nothing unpleasant.

LAST BITE: I’m not going to assign a numerical rating, but would highly recommend that you try these nibs.  The intensity of the fruit notes rivaled any bar that I’ve tasted.  You won’t have the kind of balance of creaminess, sweetness, fruitiness that you’ll find in a bar and certainly there is nothing smooth about the texture, but you will find a very interesting, assertive flavor profile that brings you closer to the raw bean.

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